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Power locker in Michigan
#21
Best units are the ones that have fans, next up get the heaviest units as these will either have more heatsings or bigger transformers.

One thing to consider when adding FET's into an array is the impact that the additional gate current has on the FET switching time, which will increase losses/heating. The switching time is defined by the gate current charge and discharge timings, which impacts the transition phase which is where the inefficiency/resistance occurs in the FET.

Spread the load accross 2 of them (you can't wire the outputs in parallel unfortunately as they will not sync) and that way you have a lower loading, but of resilliance. I have a 2200VA model like Korishan and performed one necessary modification - removing the internal sounder...


My unit has been running for a few days now with the battery indicator never moving off flashing or the first charge LED, even though the battery voltage is over 50V at times. Dumb internal software... needs a "cycle test" to reset the battery calibration and I don't think it will quite work with a 28kWh battery.
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#22
(06-10-2018, 12:58 PM)completelycharged Wrote: Best units are the ones that have fans, next up get the heaviest units as these will either have more heatsings or bigger transformers.

One thing to consider when adding FET's into an array is the impact that the additional gate current has on the FET switching time, which will increase losses/heating. The switching time is defined by the gate current charge and discharge timings, which impacts the transition phase which is where the inefficiency/resistance occurs in the FET.

Spread the load accross 2 of them (you can't wire the outputs in parallel unfortunately as they will not sync) and that way you have a lower loading, but of resilliance. I have a 2200VA model like Korishan and performed one necessary modification - removing the internal sounder...


My unit has been running for a few days now with the battery indicator never moving off flashing or the first charge LED, even though the battery voltage is over 50V at times. Dumb internal software... needs a "cycle test" to reset the battery calibration and I don't think it will quite work with a 28kWh battery.

The one I intend to use is a rack mount unit that runs off 48v. I'm being lazy and not posting a picture here just yet I will soon once I get things put back together though. The two 24v units are stand alone and modified sine wave. I am not sure what I want to do with them yet. I was hoping to be able to canablize one or both to improve the 48v unit. Sadly it does not appear so, at least at my skill level. I am trying to cobble together a means to communicate with the unit, but naturally APC had to make it complicated so that is slowing me down. 

I have decided to not improve the 48v unit just yet due to lack of sufficient solar and completed battery capisity. It may not add a lot of no lpad draw, but right now any load is more then I can charge with solar. An afternoon of reconfiguring will get me about 30w of solar. I do have a 250w panel too, but seeing how small my battery is that just seems like time wasted at this point. It might actually even charge the test pack too fast as well.
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#23
Progress pictures. It all has now moved to it's intended home. We shall see if it all stays here.

   
   
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#24
Just a quick update after reluctantly taking the summer off. I am currently using just one 14s30p set up with all sub 2100mah cells. It is working well for charging the phones and the lawnmower battries, but that's about it.

I decided to start building out the second string even though I dont have enough cells. I have enough for 60p now and maybe 65p by the time I get the bus bars built. I know how I'm going to build them, but need to build a jig.

I will be removing the disconnects and anl fuses for something a bit higher quailty. Not sure what it will be just yet though. All I know is it will cost more then what I have now. Worth it if it saves hard work and property.
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