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Remotely turn on/off solar
#31
Well, I turned on network mode and wiggled every wire to no avail. I also decided to remove all those extra wires since I was there anyway (I prob would have done it anyway). But that still didn't help. Not surprising on that one... I knew whatever was wrong didn't have to do with the extra thick wires anyway. It either has to do with the small batrium wires or possibly the mons themselves.

Any other quick tips?
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#32
To make sure we have the same info regarding the problem: You say that the longmons continue to bypass current and measure wrong voltage or?

So in GUI you can see them stating to high voltage? And running bypass? Meanwhile your avometer is showing lower voltage?
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#33
(01-22-2019, 03:20 PM)nrm21 Wrote: Float charge start at 3.5 for me right now... I might lower that also.  Thing is I can do that remotely right now, but can't remotely set the inverter (gotta be home for that to press buttons, no RDP into my box).  And if I don't do them in tandem... then they start burning down while the inverter is still filling them up... makes for a lot of unnecessary heat and that's also no good.  For me it's a slow tweak process, I make minor changes day by day and monitor to eventually get to what I want in the settings.  I find that the best way.

I do notice the flat charge curve, where for hours my batt is slowly moving in the morning from 3.10 to 3.45 (when I know i have full solar for hours) then rapidly goes up to 3.60 at the end.  But, if you say 3.45 is full I'm curious why the setting in the latest Batrium firmware for "LiFePO4 Long Life" is still 3.5v or <bypass volt> setting.

You should tune the voltages to suit your own cells - customize them!

Please advise what full charge voltage your chargers are set for.

The cellmons usually bypass for a burst & settle down unless you are continuously pushing current into the cells. 
If the charger is set too high vs the cellmon voltages, they'll bypass a lot.
Running off solar, DIY & electronics fan :-)
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#34
Daniel: Correct, but only some of them cause the issue. Causing the rest to go out of balance. It almost wouldn't be a problem at all if they all did it cause they would still stay at approximately same cell voltages.


Red: Believe me I do tweak them. I have the inverter/charger set to 56.1v right now (yesterday was 56.2v) its a 16s so just under 3.51v per cell.
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#35
Can you take an image of the voltmeter and screendump the batrium dashboard when it happens?
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Current: 10kW Mpp Hybrid | 4kW PIP4048 | 2x PCM60x | 83kWh LiFePo4 | 10kWh 14s 18650 |  66*260W Poly
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#36
Not easily with the voltmeter, but I have taken a screenshot of Batriums during the event. I can say that it does happen less these days than it use too. Probably that the cells are more in balance... but it still occurs occasionally.

Usually when fast transition like a sunny day when a cloud just finishes passing over and I get full sunlight again.... most of the mons jack up in voltage (as SCC ramps up charge) and some come back down again (as SCC backs off again realizing battery is now slightly overvoltage), but the rest stay in the stuck state burning down. So to keep voltage of entire batt topped at threshold, SCC stars charging a bit... then a bit more. Slowly normal cells are pulled higher and higher volt while the stickys are continuing to burn down.

As soon as I sync it fixes voltage of stiky cells to correct voltage again and burning down stops immediately. The the problem slowly corrects itself back to normal, at least until it occurs again.
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#37
Can you please post the screen shots during one of these "sun comes out suddenly" events? (+others too?)

Why is the SCC going over voltage?
Is there an equalize setting in the SCC that's set to a higher voltage? If so turn that off or reduce it to 56.0V
This sounds more like the charge controller is faulty & the batrium gear is being worked hard as a result?
Running off solar, DIY & electronics fan :-)
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#38
Here are some screenshots from stickyness error and about 30 seconds later (after completeing a device sync)






To be clear... what you are looking at in the first pic seems normal... and it would be if those cells were at about 3.58v... what I'm saying is that... no they are not... they are far closer to the 3.33-3.35v that the others were at (verified by volt meter at the time).  And of course the moment I do device sync... boom they realice the correct voltage and and stop bypassing ("burning down" I call it).

The SCC only goes over voltage for a few seconds... and only after sudden rise in voltage like a cloud passing over.  Then it re-adjusts it's MPPT measurements to back off until batt voltage back to normal (which only takes about 30 seconds itself).  I suspect that is normal behavior for an SCC.

And before you ask no I don't have shunt (didn't purchase it) that's why those values are 0.


--- EDIT ---
I changed the links to images to make it easier.
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#39
Please start with and lower bypass current to 0.96A instead!

Also are you using any shared loom ie any of the longmon wires combined? They need to be on their own.


On other hand it only takes 1 A to bump the cells to that when they are full. So perhaps thats whats happening? On other hand there is no current on above.
The Ultimate DIY Solar and build place
YouTube / Forum system setup / My webpage  Diy Tech & Repairs

Current: 10kW Mpp Hybrid | 4kW PIP4048 | 2x PCM60x | 83kWh LiFePo4 | 10kWh 14s 18650 |  66*260W Poly
Upcoming: 14S 18650~30kWh | Automatic trip breakers, and alot more
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#40
I'm sorry I can't contribute to the solution, BUT ... your screenshots have convinced me that I am going to spring for the shunt option when I get my Batrium. Oh the agony I would feel with all those zeroes ... egad. Thanks for sharing, this has helped me.
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nothing to see here ... move along
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