another reliable inverter customer

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floydR

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I will test again tomorrow when I have more time. Tonights test was about a minute long using a very small 120v fan .35 amp. and 4 36volt batteries hooked in parallel. I would like at least 10 batteries hooked in parallel. About 40 AH 10s20p equivalent 10s2p x 10
But first impression of the 36v 3000 watt 120v inverter are positive. The user manual a bit thin nothing on 36v inverters nor 120v @60 hz

The over voltage LED was flickering @41.3v-41.2v input, maybe this is normal, the over voltage alarm didn't go off. Input range is 30v-45v, output was 122-121 volts.



later floyd

Did one more test with 2 batteries @36.5v Just to make sure it was a 36v inverter and not just one that the 36v checked. worked. So think I am good to go.

Later floyd
 
I tested the hardwire ouput Voltage. Three wires Red, yellow, black. red and black 122.1v red and yellow .05v yellow and black .03v.
L1 is red neutral is black that would make yellow ground?


Later floyd
 
I tested the output on the outlets on the inverter and the three wire connector again just now. I can say with a 99% certainty that my 36 volt inverter only has one hot leg ~120v. I tested from one leg of outlet to the other leg returned ~120v, one leg to ground .4v other leg to ground .4v, Red to yellow .4v red to black ~120v yellow to black .4v.
Not sure why my inverter is different from the 48v models maybe better quality control, different parts suppliers?

later floyd
 
The inverter powered my small window ac and my small vacuum total of 14.7 amp 1754 watts started at the same time.
later floyd
 
Thanks for the update on these. Each positive review of these gets me closer to buying one myself :)
 
My test set up
12 36v hoverboard batteries connected to bus bars 3/8" copper tubing with 1 xt60 y connectors fused on positive and negative with 20 amp 58v mini fuses 3 sets of batteries on each side of busbar the busbars are clamped to the 10 awg silicone wire (ok whacked with a hammer til tight) from there it runs to an airpax 30 amp 2 pole dc circuit breake from the breaker it goes to inverter. here as I didn't have the fittings I just placed the wire between the washers tighten nut.

I tested it out at my parents house with a 2 hp air compressor it powers the air compressor for about 30 second then the 30 amp circuit breaker trips.Thinking as the pressure builds the amps go up. Also tested it with a smaller Air compressor pumped from about 20 lbs press up to 100 lbs pressure No heat problems with the batteries.
I have a 65 amp (81.2A trip) airpax dc two pole circuit breaker I will try next weekend. Perhaps I will have the battery complete by then. I suspect that if the Cb had been the larger one it wouldn't have tripped.

later floyd
 
Thanks. I've seen that brand and I have been considering buying one to test out. Glad to hear it has a decent following!
 
Be very careful with these "Reliable" inverters! Fuse your battery bank to blow or trip a breaker will before you reach the max output of the inverter. I will not buy another one of these again! Mine blew half the internal fuses and half the Mosfets from a single overload. Needless to say I have an MPP inverter now and have been very happy with it.
 
Hmm, 1 rotten egg in the whole chicken farm makes them all bad? Well, we obviously should fuse on both sides lower than what the absolute max of the inverter can handle.

mr_hypno said:
Mine blew half the internal fuses and half the Mosfets from a single overload. Needless to say I have an MPP inverter now and have been very happy with it.
Click to expand...

The first questions that comes to mind is:
1) Which unit did you have and what was the amount of overload?
2) How long did this overload last?

If you had a 3000W unit, and it was surged to 7000W, then this could really be a big problem. With what you said about fusing/breakers before the max limit, this hold true absolutely.
If the overload, or max load (6000W in the above example), had a duration of a minute, or longer than the recommended time frame based on the datasheet, then this could definitely contribute to the cascading failure that was experienced.

Short Answer: We can't base a sound and logical and rational viewpoint on a product without knowing all the facts that lead to it's failure.
Long Answer with a leason:
There was a guy died last year in the area where I live when his Tesla Roadster autopolited into the side of a tractor trailer. He was immediately killed as his car was no longer a hard top, but now a convertible. This was one of the first deaths associated with the autonomous mode of Tesla's cars. It got some bad flack about it. But it was kept under wraps until a full investigation came out about the incident.
The guy had a youtube channel and boasted about his Tesla and how it would avoid accidents and keep distances from other vehicles and such. He even mentioned that you need to keep paying attention because it 'sometimes' errorred and you needed to respond to it. Well, he ignored his own advice as he was watching a portable dvd player (the inbuilt unit will not play while the car is in auto mode). He had set the cruise control at 65mph in a 45mph zone. And, because of all this, he wasn't paying attention to the road.
Since the incident, Tesla incorporated the pressure sensors on the steering wheel to monitor if your hands on are on the wheel or not. If it doesn't sense the presence of your hand, it disengages and slows down and pulls over if you don't respond soon enough.
Click to expand...
 
Korishan said:
Hmm, 1 rotten egg in the whole chicken farm makes them all bad? Well, we obviously should fuse on both sides lower than what the absolute max of the inverter can handle.

mr_hypno said:
Mine blew half the internal fuses and half the Mosfets from a single overload. Needless to say I have an MPP inverter now and have been very happy with it.
Click to expand...

The first questions that comes to mind is:
1) Which unit did you have and what was the amount of overload?
2) How long did this overload last?

If you had a 3000W unit, and it was surged to 7000W, then this could really be a big problem. With what you said about fusing/breakers before the max limit, this hold true absolutely.
If the overload, or max load (6000W in the above example), had a duration of a minute, or longer than the recommended time frame based on the datasheet, then this could definitely contribute to the cascading failure that was experienced.

Short Answer: We can't base a sound and logical and rational viewpoint on a product without knowing all the facts that lead to it's failure.
Long Answer with a leason:
There was a guy died last year in the area where I live when his Tesla Roadster autopolited into the side of a tractor trailer. He was immediately killed as his car was no longer a hard top, but now a convertible. This was one of the first deaths associated with the autonomous mode of Tesla's cars. It got some bad flack about it. But it was kept under wraps until a full investigation came out about the incident.
The guy had a youtube channel and boasted about his Tesla and how it would avoid accidents and keep distances from other vehicles and such. He even mentioned that you need to keep paying attention because it 'sometimes' errorred and you needed to respond to it. Well, he ignored his own advice as he was watching a portable dvd player (the inbuilt unit will not play while the car is in auto mode). He had set the cruise control at 65mph in a 45mph zone. And, because of all this, he wasn't paying attention to the road.
Since the incident, Tesla incorporated the pressure sensors on the steering wheel to monitor if your hands on are on the wheel or not. If it doesn't sense the presence of your hand, it disengages and slows down and pulls over if you don't respond soon enough.
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
Well I have a pile of 3 "rotten eggs". 1 was a 48v DC to 110v AC 1500 watt. That one was my fault for backfeeding into it, and it worked flawless before that happened so +1 there.
I have 2 48v DC to 120v AC 3500 watt versions. Both of them blew up by simply overloading them (IDK the exact wattage it was but all my 120v circuits in my house dont pull 3.5kw combined) and it was instant when i closed the breaker.The inverter should have protected itself by simply blowing the fuses, but no...it melted the fuse holders and blew the mosfets and a few resistors. 1 wont even turn on and the other turns on and beeps but the fets get hot. So thats -2 in for me with a grand total of -1 for my "reliable" experience. The 2nd one was sent to me under warranty after they determined the 1st one wasnt fixable and freight to send back was literally theft!

Ive since gone with MPP solar and havent had an issue even if I overload it. Just recycle the power switch and it turns back on.

In my experience I would never buy anything from reliable again! I hope yours works great for you though.

Now MPP just needs to makesome 48v DCto 120V AC in the 3-5kw range!
 
What breaker did you have on the ac side? how many amps? trying to understand what went wrong.

Later floyd
 
floydR said:
What breaker did you have on the ac side? how many amps? trying to understand what went wrong.

Later floyd
Click to expand...


I have 30 amps total on the AC side. Now that should be the total sustainable power a 3500 watt inverter should be able to put out (surge watts not including). And no...it didnt trip thebreaker. I am trying to understand myself. There isnt anything I have that will pull that unless everything started all at once, and i was already running my normal lights and misc stuff at 1kw draw.
 
Since That was about the extend of my ideas.
I will be doubly careful now.
Later floyd
 
Keep us updated Floyd. Like I said my 1500 watt one was awesome! Good luck bud.
 
I will keep everyone updated as I further est my inverter.
later floyd
 
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