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need some assistance with a nissan leaf power wall build
(09-03-2017, 03:27 PM)daromer Wrote: everyone here on this forum that run lithium to the inverters have float and bulk to same or close to same. I have my float to 0.1V below bulk and that works great.

does setting it 0.1v below bulk make it never enter the float stage and end charging after CV stage? what is the behavior you see?

also could we possibly use the "dry contact signal" to detect when float charging is activated and use an external relay to disconnect the battery?

the manual says the following:

it will enter the float stage for a minute or 5. its just a way to top it off. Im not sure if this will help or damage but it works and i left it like that.

Why do you want to disconnect the battery when bulk is done? What use is the battery then ? Smile

As long as the charger enters float and bulk it will after that stop charging. Thats normal on most chargers and works like that on the MPP products i currently have. Since i have current load on the system the batteries will never care of what is going on since they either charge or discharge kind of. They dont rest much Smile
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(09-04-2017, 07:19 AM)daromer Wrote: Why do you want to disconnect the battery when bulk is done? What use is the battery then ? Smile

ah yes, i guess i wasn't thinking right :p
(09-03-2017, 12:22 PM)Ryan Gunner Wrote: well, the battery modules are kinda free cause my leaf is scheduled to get a brand new replacement from japan in the next 6 to 8 months. my current soh/ capacity is around 57% and when it drops to 50% i'll use it for this power .....

Is that a warranty replacement you are expecting ?
Fuses are supposed to be rated approx 20% above steady state load.
They have "time to blow" curves for different currents above their rated current - higher the current, shorter the time to blow.
Ie they are designed to handle short bursts like a motor start, etc without blowing but will actually blow if that high current was sustained.

If you uses fuses with peak load, the wiring or other parts would probably blow/melt/catch fire "to protect the fuse" (industry joke but serious issue).

+1 you should go 48V.
+1 get a BMS sooner rather than later.
Running off solar, DIY & electronics fan :-)
Hi Ryan,

I have experience in using the leaf modules in a self build system.

You could use a voltage monitor like the JLD404 that ha 2 relay outputs, you could program it so that it shuts off the battery at your high voltage set point, as an emergency shut off, then add in a switch so that in the event of an emergency high volt shut off the battery has to see amanual intervention form you, to ensure all is in order with the battery.

The nissan leaf cells dont drift out of voltage too much, they stay pretty much in balance, just ensure your inverter parameters are well inside the leaf cell module parameters.
I think the leaf charger to a max V of 4.14, and they discharge to 3.5v, if no bms then id run a healthy margin nside those parameters too to ensure the cells dont run away from you.

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