watts-on
Member
- Joined
- May 27, 2017
- Messages
- 198
I have had this idea bouncing around my head for a while now, but since I've decided to build one ( or some ) of Brett's Charge/Discharge Testers, I just didn't fancyusing any ofthose single 18650 holders.
So I thought it was time to turn my idea into reality:
It has a spring loaded lever that allows you to effortlessly insert or remove a cell just by pressing it.
Some exploded Views:
I have attached the STL files if anyone wants to 3D printtheir own.
edit:
Re-uploaded the attached zip file as a forgot to add all the files to it.
Also, I did a YouTube video too. Hope you like it. Go easy on me though, it's my first one ever
Edit: Hardware list for non-printed parts (vitamins):
So I thought it was time to turn my idea into reality:
It has a spring loaded lever that allows you to effortlessly insert or remove a cell just by pressing it.
Some exploded Views:
I have attached the STL files if anyone wants to 3D printtheir own.
edit:
Re-uploaded the attached zip file as a forgot to add all the files to it.
Also, I did a YouTube video too. Hope you like it. Go easy on me though, it's my first one ever
Edit: Hardware list for non-printed parts (vitamins):
Code:
Main Assembly
1 x Peg Spring. See note 1
2 x M3 x 6mm Brass Screw ( pan or cheese head).
2 x M3 Brass Washer.
2 x Brass Nut.
2 x M3 Tag (Solder Or Crimp)
1 x M3 x 25mm Screw (any material) see note 2.
1 x M3 Nut (any material). see note 2
2 x Wires. See note 3.
Auxiliary parts:
2 * 3mm fixings. See note 4.
Note 1.
The most critical component is the spring and can be found in mass produced clothes pegs. I purchased mine in my local super-market in the UK, so I assume these are easily available in other countries.
The coil must be no longer than 11mm, no larger that 7mm diameter, have a core hole large enough to accept the 3mm shaft/thread used for the pivot.
The ones I used had a hole that was slightly too small, however, as you see in the video, you have to re-form them to get the correct angle for the spring to work. This has the added benefit that it opens up the core hole just enough to make it the perfect clearance.
Note 2.
The M3 x 25mm screw and nut are for the lever pivot. If side stacking multiple slots at 1 inch pitch it is advisable to use a countersunk M3 x 25mm since these are slightly shorter than 25mm pan head screws.
This will ensure the screws do not clash with the ones in adjacent slots.
In the case of the 4 gang slot, a 102mm length of M3 studding should be used instead of 25mm screw.
Alternatively, any 3mm diameter material can be used as the pivot provided it is durable enough.
Note 3.
The wire requirement will vary depending on application and required current. As an example, for my PCB mounted ones I used 15mm x 1.2mm diameter solid copper for the positive, and 50mm of 16/0.2mm insulated wire for the negative. Add a loop or two to the wire to help eliminate metal fatigue during operation.
Note 4.
Two countersunk holes are provided in the base to allow for fixing the slot to a surface. As an example. for PCB mounting use M3 x 8mm. alternatively, wood screws or self-tapping screws with a suitable sized countersunk head could be used.