Dala's Leaf buildthread (2015 Nissan Leaf)

are you trying to integrate the CCS Port directly into the car or will it be a kind of adapter to the Chademo port (but replaces physicaly the Chademo port on the Car)?

the later one would be ready for a CCS to Chademo adapter for all Chademo cars.
 
Directly to the car for simplicity. Constructing an adapter inbetween would require 100x more effort (and I'm sure other people have tried and failed at this).
 
Looking forward to follow this! I heard previously about CCS beeing so hard to reverse engineer, and as I understand it, it is using power line communication, which I guess does not make things easier. But I still find it strange that it can be that hard if you have access to both charger and car an log several charge cycles..
I guess I have to look into Damien's videos and repos to get up to date.

@Dala did you get the parts from bildelsbasen? and roughly what was the cost?
 
@Dala
Is it possible to tap in to HV at ptc heater connector on the battery or heater?
For low power range extender.
What fuse rating is in the battery for ptc heater?

Thank you
 
pirpy said:
@Dala
Is it possible to tap in to HV at ptc heater connector on the battery or heater?
For low power range extender.
What fuse rating is in the battery for ptc heater?

Thank you
Click to expand...
No! The wires are really thin and only made for a 6kW maximum load (theoretically max 10kW). Don't do that!
 
3.3 kW is enaugh for my battery extender, I'm thinking of putting a removable 10 kWh 48 V lifepo4 battery in my trunk for occasionally long trips, with this bidirectional dc/dc inverter:https://www.farnell.com/datasheets/3093822.pdf
The explosion in an event of shortcircuit would be 10 times smaller :).
Since it is a removable battery extender, it must have some sort of converter so that voltage maching is not an issue, and when I don't need an extra range, I can use the 48 battery for my house battery and have a full trunk space (95 % of the time)
An extender would be built with 2 boxes of 16 lifepo4 105 Ah so that one person can handle the thing.
P.S.
I newer empty my main battery in less than 3 hours of driving, so 3.3 kW dc/dc is enaugh for 10 kWh battery extender, if I put 20 kWh in my trunk I would use another dc/dc and have 6.6 kW and it would still be in spec for the thin cables from heater connector.
or is there another obsticle, a'm not aware of?
 
Last edited:
Boy oh boy you have a fantasy
please, please refrain from your undertaking,
and keep the roads, your car, and passengers safe

my 2 cents.
Carel
 
pirpy said:
3.3 kW is enaugh for my battery extender, I'm thinking of putting a removable 10 kWh 48 V lifepo4 battery in my trunk for occasionally long trips, with this bidirectional dc/dc inverter:https://www.farnell.com/datasheets/3093822.pdf
The explosion in an event of shortcircuit would be 10 times smaller :).
Since it is a removable battery extender, it must have some sort of converter so that voltage maching is not an issue, and when I don't need an extra range, I can use the 48 battery for my house battery and have a full trunk space (95 % of the time)
An extender would be built with 2 boxes of 16 lifepo4 105 Ah so that one person can handle the thing.
P.S.
I newer empty my main battery in less than 3 hours of driving, so 3.3 kW dc/dc is enaugh for 10 kWh battery extender, if I put 20 kWh in my trunk I would use another dc/dc and have 6.6 kW and it would still be in spec for the thin cables from heater connector.
or is there another obsticle, a'm not aware of?
Click to expand...
No, if you have a chemistry that is not LMO then the voltage will probably be higher under load on the extender pack compared to the original battery. This will make current want to go almost fully from the extender battery, and you will pull probably 10-30kW of power from the extender pack.

The reason the Muxsan range extender works so well is just this difference in chemistry. The original LMO pack is not stressed hard, but the extender pack , NMC, takes most of the force. So if you have to make an extender, do it properly and hook it up to the thick 50mm^2 cables.

Also there's the need for extra contactors, cell monitoring, current measurement, etc. that all needs to be put onto the CAN bus in order for the extender to work properly. Don't do it unless you intend to do it properly.
 
Muxan range extender is not portable, has to expensive bms and to complex battery. I don't want to have 400 V battery in the trunk.
I don't have overheat problems, so 3.3 kW constant charging when driving is ok for me. Portable 48 V battery with bms and dc/dc converter for dumping 10 kWh of power to main battery in 3 hours.
I just want to know the wiiring inside the battery.
Is the ptc connected to 30 A fuse and then to main power output or is there additional relay for ptc output? where is the current sensor for ptc?
No messing with can bus, simply dc/dc on, when HV apears and 12V on the fuse 21 and off when 12V disapear on fuse 21.
I did similar thing on zoe for V2H, but it has unused connector for ptc .
 
Last edited:
I just got my LEAF tinted! Did the rear doors and hatch with 15%, didn't dare touch the front doors :) It looks awesome, should have done this long ago!

hUYerxV.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top